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A comprehensive overview of the science of surfactants. At one time, man used water, herbs, even ash and animal fat to wash his face. Next, a silent hero came on the scene – surfactant. The name might be a bit hard to say, but its task is very simple – it is to make water and oil do their job, to remove dirt easily. Wow fact: Surfactants are able to “communicate” with both water and oil simultaneously because of their special structure. One side is dirty, the other side is clean (water). At DERMAX LAB ACADEMY, surfactants are given great importance when teaching formulation. This tiny but potent ingredient is crucial to all of these products such as a cleanser, shampoo, body wash, micellar water or face wash.  So What is a Surfactant? Surfactant is derived from surface-active agent. In other words, it’s a molecule that has two sides, a hydrophilic (water-loving) side and a hydrophobic (oil-loving) side. This biophilia nature causes the surfactant to form a bridge between water and oil. That is, oil on its own is not easily washed away and water on its own is not capable of removing oily dirt. However, when a surfactant shows up, it says to you, “Don’t worry, I’m here.” Wow fact: The property of many surfactants is to form ‘micelles’ which are like tiny spheres that trap oil and dirt inside and then wash it away with water.  So what are Surfactants? Surfactants are not only cleaning agents, they also have a wide variety of other functions. They are like multitasking cosmetic formulation workers. Cleansing The most common function. Surfactants are used to get rid of the accumulation of oil, dust, sweat and dirt on the skin or hair. Emulsifying Certain surfactants are able to form an emulsion of oil and water. It is very crucial in creams, lotions and a few skin care products. Solubilizing Surfactants are used to disperse small quantities of fragrance, essential oil or oil-based ingredients in water-based preparations. Foaming While not every surfactant can produce foam, some will produce a rich foam, giving the user a greater sense of “cleanliness.” But it’s not to be forgotten: more foam doesn’t necessarily equal more cleaning. Wow fact: Many mild cleansers are very effective at cleaning the skin without all the lather. Therefore, judging based on foam isn’t always right.  History of Surfactants Surfactants have a very ancient history. Soap-like substances were made by the ancient Egyptians from animal fat and ash. In Roman times, there were also several types of soap-like substances used for cleanliness. This age old necessity for cleansing has become very ‘smart’ with the advent of modern chemistry. All of today’s shampoo, face wash, body wash, and micellar waters rely on surfactant science. In places like DERMAX LAB ACADEMY, it’s possible to see that formulation is not just about making a product, it’s about the evolution of science.  Types of Surfactants Generally, there are four groups of surfactant. Their behavior is different, therefore, their functions are also different. Anionic These have a negative charge. They give good lathering and are high lathering. SLS, SLES, sodium cocoyl isethionate are examples of these  Cationic These have a positive charge. They are primarily used as conditioning agents such as in haircare. BTAC is an excellent buffer for the pH range 4 to 10.Examples of buffers: BTAC in pH range 4 – 10 is an excellent buffer. Nonionic These are free of charge. They are mild, versatile and are frequently used as solubilizers or emulsifiers. Purpose: Emulsifier, surfactant, food stabilizer, and sweetener Amphoteric They can act positive or negative as per pH. They enhance the mildness and aid in the stability of foams. Example: cocamidopropyl betaine Wow fact: In contemporary cleansers, several different surfactants are mixed together to ensure that the cleansing ability, lather, gentle nature and skin-feel are kept in proper balance. Where & How Much Surfactant Blend Is Used? A handy guide. The final formula can vary according to the type of product, the pH, the actives used and the skin feel.  1) Face Wash Typically 6% to 12% blend of total surfactant Mildness is of the most importance here. If your skin is sensitive, the lower end of the range is better.  2) Shampoo Typically, 12%-20% Surfactant Blend, total. Here, cleansing power, foam and rinse feel are essential.  3) Body Wash Typically, a total surfactant blend of 10% to 18%. It provides a bit more cleansing as a face wash, but attempts to retain a softer feel than shampoo. 4) Hand Wash Typically 8-15% blend of total surfactant Quick cleanse is necessary, but not too drying to the skin.  5) Micellar Water Typically 0.5% – 5% surfactant / solubilizing system An ultra-mild system is required as this product tends to remain on the skin.  6) Cleansing cream (cleansing lotion) Usually 2%–8% surfactant system So here we need comfort and cleansing and use a slightly lower but effective range. Wow fact: The same surfactant system can be used at a higher ratio in a cleanser, at a lower ratio in micellar water, and at a different ratio in an emulsifying system. This means that the ingredient changes its function.  What Surfactant to Use and When? The first question that should be asked when making a formulation is—what type of product is it?  Rinse-Off Product Examples: Cleanser, Shampoo, Body Wash. In this case, it’s all about the cleansing action and the foam factor. These products only need to last a short time after being washed off the skin, so a surfactant system is designed to not only remove dirt and oil efficiently, but to provide an enjoyable foaming experience too. Foam and Cleansing are important in Rinse-Off Products for what reasons? Surfactants play a primary role in rinse-off formulations in that they remove the dirt from the surface of the skin. Anionic surfactants are more commonly used as they have good cleansing properties and generate copious amounts of lather. But, in the modern formulations, cleansing is